Work Page 2026
1920's Weymann Style 140
19 fret tenor
Maple construction
Open back, 11" x 3/4" rim
20 bracket
Maple construction
Open back, 11" x 3/4" rim
20 bracket
Repair as needed
Refinish as needed
Heel- previously repaired, still needs more work
Clean all hardware
Re-finish wood - 4 coats production nitro
Setup
INITIAL PICS
Refinish as needed
Heel- previously repaired, still needs more work
Clean all hardware
Re-finish wood - 4 coats production nitro
Setup
INITIAL PICS
Grover Champion pegs.
Delaminations from humidity, maybe from a cellar.
Not knowing how to use it does this, I have repaired MANY.
Modern armrest, tailpiece cover missing,
This neck adjuster should be named "Heelbreaker"
When doing the disassembly I noticed that the head, an 11" low crown REMO Fiberskyn, had an issue I have been seeing lately on REMO banjo heads where the diameter is correct at the bottom of the head but then they take a sever tapering inward where they contact the bearing edge of the tone ring.
It was extremely tight and had to be knocked off of the tone ring, in that area.
I will not re-use that head, and will find something that actually fits correctly.
It was extremely tight and had to be knocked off of the tone ring, in that area.
I will not re-use that head, and will find something that actually fits correctly.
Vega Little Wonder, Bacon Peerless, also used this style ring.
Hooks all cleaned, nice condition.
Clear complete, ready for hardware.
I will remove finish and seal.
All sealed up, ready for clear.
Ready for head, will consult owner.
Neck work
After I took it off, I saw that whoever worked on it lagged it together with screws and then ground the heads off. No way to get them out easily or cost effectively so I opted to inject glue into the open areas, since it is already quite stable and add wood flour to fill the remaining gaps.
Being that it is blond maple, there is now way to hide the repair unless someone wanted a dark fade but again, on this model, I feel that this is enough, no need to hide it, as it is not a collectible or rare instrument.
I left the original finish on the peghead reverse and sides, and removed the peghead finish on the front and added new clear.
I will see if the owner wants the whole thing tinted, or just the heel and leave the center area blond, or just "as is"
After I took it off, I saw that whoever worked on it lagged it together with screws and then ground the heads off. No way to get them out easily or cost effectively so I opted to inject glue into the open areas, since it is already quite stable and add wood flour to fill the remaining gaps.
Being that it is blond maple, there is now way to hide the repair unless someone wanted a dark fade but again, on this model, I feel that this is enough, no need to hide it, as it is not a collectible or rare instrument.
I left the original finish on the peghead reverse and sides, and removed the peghead finish on the front and added new clear.
I will see if the owner wants the whole thing tinted, or just the heel and leave the center area blond, or just "as is"
Heel cap is loose and cracked, will repair and dye.
This is sifted wood powder, not home made.
Pressed into the open areas.
Completed with a coat of clear for now,
Curb feeler. (old people get it)
Adding clear coats.
A little tint added to the heel and the dowel to balance the look.
That is the scews.
I will add 3/32 side markers.
Frets leveled crown polished, fingerboard oiled.
Double dots at 12.
"To fade...or not to fade, that, is the question".
Assembly / Neck adjuster
Since there is nothing like a Weymann neck adjuster, I thought I would show how I go about it.
When improperly installed/adjusted they can snap a heel off.
(Which is what got us here.)
I did not take disassembly pics in sequence but it is the reverse of installation.
After slipping in the neck:
Click on the pics for the info.
When improperly installed/adjusted they can snap a heel off.
(Which is what got us here.)
I did not take disassembly pics in sequence but it is the reverse of installation.
After slipping in the neck:
Click on the pics for the info.
I put the base on and turn it upwards until it is close and drop it into the dowel.
move the rod over, install the base screws.
Install the heel screws, snugly.
It should sit like this, on the heel, with no pressure.
Install the backplate and yoke, leaving adjusting screws loose for now.
Bring in the yoke screws to snug it to the rim.
On the last part of the sequence, I install the tailpiece lag (not shown) and snug it.
Then the adjuster screw is to be turned counterclockwise, as shown.
By design, this raise the rod, and pulls the heel inwards.
Too much, you will snap the heel so it has to be just right.
The rod is brass and too much tension can actually break the rod at the heel where it meets which is why I have spun this cautionary tale.
The just check the tightness of the yoke screws
Then the adjuster screw is to be turned counterclockwise, as shown.
By design, this raise the rod, and pulls the heel inwards.
Too much, you will snap the heel so it has to be just right.
The rod is brass and too much tension can actually break the rod at the heel where it meets which is why I have spun this cautionary tale.
The just check the tightness of the yoke screws
Pegs/Head/Setup
For pegs, we will not re-use the Grover friction pegs.
I had a set of ABM's (German) 4:1 with worn gold, so I opted to use them after I brushed what was left off of them and made a satin nickel look on them.
What made them a good candidate is they have a long barrel and deep nut which is perfect for these thick Weymann pegheads.
So I reamed to 3/8" and installed them.
Nice pegs, they needed a home.
On the head I opted for a Deering (REMO) that is non-frosted top, frosted bottom.
Acetone made short work of the logo removal.
For pegs, we will not re-use the Grover friction pegs.
I had a set of ABM's (German) 4:1 with worn gold, so I opted to use them after I brushed what was left off of them and made a satin nickel look on them.
What made them a good candidate is they have a long barrel and deep nut which is perfect for these thick Weymann pegheads.
So I reamed to 3/8" and installed them.
Nice pegs, they needed a home.
On the head I opted for a Deering (REMO) that is non-frosted top, frosted bottom.
Acetone made short work of the logo removal.
Setup GDAE, plays well up and down the board.
Neck is very flat, almost no relief.
Neck is very flat, almost no relief.
Thanks for looking and sharing,
VM
VM